Proper plant selection | almost PERFECT Landscaping
It is easy to remember what “specimen” plants are if you learn the Latin root that the word is based upon. The Latin root, spec– means “to look at.” Consequently, a specimen plant is one you would single out in your landscape as being particularly worth looking at and thereby deserving of “center stage” in your yard.
Often this will be a tree, but it could also be a shrub, perennial, or other plant if it is sufficiently large, especially showy, cuts a bold figure, or strikes the eye as being quite unusual.
An example of a specimen plant is a flowering or evergreen tree that has a prominent spot reserved for it on a lawn. What type of tree should you use? For example, if you have a favorite color, you might make your selection from a number of candidates whose flowers or foliage sport that particular color. But it could be any visual attribute that you, yourself attach value to. A Weeping Colorado Spruce would and does contrast nicely against light colored or brick and stone structures with its deep and dark green needles and weeping habit providing a pleasant visual appearance.
An in-depth explanation of tree selection criteria is available to the right.
Examples of Specimen Trees and Focal Points for landscaping are show below
Specific plant information available on link above image.
Tree Selection Criteria
Tree Selection for Homes
Trees properly selected and placed can add more in livability and value to the home than any other single landscape feature. They grow continually and are ever-changing. You will never tire of looking at them.
Trees around homes provide beauty, but their more practical function is to fulfill needs and solve problems in the home landscape.
Trees solve landscape problems by providing framing and background. Trees also improve the appearances of our homes. They can help to absorb noise, freshen the atmosphere, serve as windbreaks, provide privacy, protect, shade, shelter and divide grounds into several use areas.
Home landscapes are not, and should not be, identical. Therefore, the same kind of tree cannot be used for the same purpose on every lot. To get the most from your trees, follow these guidelines:
- Determine where trees will serve the greatest benefit.
- Select trees that fit locations and fulfill needs best.
- Properly plant, care for and maintain trees.
Shade
Trees are most frequently planted for shade. The most important shade tree on home grounds is usually located near the southwest corner of the house. If placed properly, it will shade the house during the latter part of the afternoon in summer. Trees provide better shade than artificial structures. Air passing through the branches is cooled by transpiration from the leaves.
Distance
Depending on the mature size of the tree, the distance it is set from the house will control the amount of shade given in a certain area. A tree 50 feet high with a 30-foot spread will cast a shadow equal to the tree height at 3 to 4 p.m. in midsummer. But in winter, the shadow at the same time of day will be 120 feet long. To get the most useful shade on the house at a practical distance, place the tree 15 to 20 feet from the house. Small trees may be planted closer than 15 feet, but large trees should be planted 20 feet or more away from the house.
Location
If the house faces south, or southeast, maximum shade on the front will come from a tree that is placed to the southwest, or left front. If the house faces southwest, a tree for maximum shade would have to be placed centrally and south of the house (see Figure 1). Make a diagram of your house and sketch trees with their shade patterns to determine the best locations. Do not plant large evergreens directly south of a building, as doing so greatly reduces solar gain in winter.
Framing
Trees planted for shade should also serve other functions. One of these might be framing. When a house is properly framed, it appears longer and more settled to the site. On small properties there may be room for only one additional large tree to serve this function, while on large lots or on rural sites, two or many trees may be used. At least two trees should be used if possible.
Tree size
Try to select trees that will be in proportion to the house. A large, two-story house framed with small trees will appear even larger. A low house framed with tall, broad trees will appear smaller than it is. At all times, select plants and trees that are in scale with the lot as well as the house. If there is not enough space for large trees, group small trees; where width is a problem, try a group of columnar trees.
Location
Trees for framing are usually planted on a more or less diagonal line outward from the front corners of the house. This gives more apparent depth to the lot than when trees are planted directly out to the sides on a continuation of the front baseline of the house. The effect is also better when the trees are not planted directly opposite one another and are not of the same type.
Sometimes it is not practical to place trees at the exact spot for best framing. If locations more directly in the lawn area must be used, select trees that can be developed with high branching. Never plant a tree so that it will divide any view into two equal parts or obscure the view of the house from the street.
Background
A background planting of trees should be developed so that when the house is viewed from the front, the treetops can be seen above the roof line. This softens the roof line and makes the house easier to see.
Tree types
When there is space for more than one background tree, do not use the same types of trees. One tree should be used that develops taller than the others. An irregular tree line above the roof line is most desirable. Where possible, trees with relatively fine-textured leaves, such as birch or honeylocust, will provide the most pleasing backgrounds. Medium to fine textures in leaves and branches give the illusion of more depth to limited areas.
If space limitations permit use of only one or two trees that must be centrally located, select trees with tall trunks so that pleasant views will not be hidden.
Location
Placement of trees for background will often be influenced by other needs. If the back of the house faces west or southwest, these trees may be important for shade. In this situation, the trees may be needed fairly close to the house. In other places, these trees may be needed to block undesirable views. Then it may be necessary to place them near the property line. Background trees should serve a dual function as much as possible.
Accent
Small trees with attractive flowers, berries, leaves or bark are often helpful to provide accent and complete the picture. Except on very large properties, an accent tree should be a small one, although any tree provides some accent in the landscape. Small trees may also be used on large properties but should be grouped for a more striking effect.
Location
Specimen trees for accent must be used sparingly. Too many of them will add confusion to the landscape. If planted out from and to one side of the front entrance, a specimen plant can focus attention on the front door.
The small specimen tree can also be useful as a part of entrance plantings when combined with shrubs and groundcovers at a driveway entrance.
In shrub borders of the backyard, accent trees will provide a focal point for different areas. Place them with other features, such as pools or benches, that may terminate a line of sight from the house. In the flower or shrub border, locate them where curves are sharp. At this point, the eye tends to slow as it follows the border and is attracted to the accent. On a small lot, one specimen for accent in the backyard is usually sufficient. On large lots, several can be used, but avoid confusion. When accent trees are included in a border, the mature height of the tree should be approximately 11/2 times as high as the bed is wide. Therefore, a bed 10 feet wide should contain a tree that gets more than 15 feet high.
Because most people use specimen plants for their own enjoyment and to satisfy personal preferences, the positioning should also take into consideration the view from the house. Whenever a specimen is used, place it so it can be seen from inside the house. It should be placed so it will terminate a major line of sight from windows of rooms most used in the house. Trees with decorative bark or berries in winter should especially be used in these positions.
Screens
The view of unsightly areas needs to be blocked from the home. Tree screens can provide needed privacy and at the same time may establish a sound barrier or windbreak. Trees provide more rapid screening than many shrubs. If a year-round screen is desired, evergreens should be used.
Trees do not have to be in a straight line to develop a screen. Often a grouping of trees will provide needed screening without giving a stiff appearance.
Plan the entire planting at one time even though other factors may make it necessary to plant over several seasons. Unless the property is large, tree screens will usually have to be composed of small or medium-sized trees. If space is very limited, columnar trees may be used to make an effective screen with a minimum of width. A screen of trees gives more interest and variety than a fence or other artificial screens. Different types of trees may be blended together to avoid monotony in screening.
Coniferous evergreens are desirable for a year-round screen. Their distinctive shape and texture make them dominant in plantings. For this reason they should be used sparingly.
Always consider the ultimate size of the tree before planting. Failure to do so leads to excessive shading, increased pruning requirements and root problems.
- Do not plant trees near underground pipelines, septic tanks, walks or drives or under overhead wires. Check with your local utility companies for the location of buried utility lines
- Do not plant a tree where it will overhang the house, in front of the front door or where it will obstruct a desirable view from inside the house.
- Do not plant a large tree closer than 5 feet from a sidewalk; it will eventually push up the concrete.
- Do not plant trees closer together than half their total spread at maturity.
- Do not plant trees closer than 25 feet from the corner of a block so that they will not interfere with motorists’ vision at intersections.
- Do not plant trees directly on property lines.
- Do not plant trees that give dense shade where you want to grow grass.
Planning with existing trees
When homes are built in a naturalistic setting on a wooded lot, there is often reluctance to remove any of the trees. Failure to select carefully at the time of construction may result in many problems later.
Remove any trees that are diseased, injured or deformed. If trees overhang the house, they present a safety threat and should be removed or pruned. If gardens are desired and the shade is too dense, remove enough trees in the selected gardening site to let in sufficient light. Remember that existing trees grow and will need to be pruned later to keep this space open.
Clean out brush and trim up the trunks of the trees in the front area so that the house can be viewed from the street by looking between the trunks of the trees. Along property lines, shrubs should be allowed to remain or added to develop privacy.
A lot may not have enough trees for a naturalistic effect. Where only a few exist, the first step should again be to remove misshapen, diseased, damaged or poor trees. From those remaining, select the best to fulfill needs such as shade, framing or background.
Selecting the tree
After the need for a tree at a given location has been established, the next step will be to determine what tree or trees would best satisfy the needs. Several characteristics of trees must be considered.
Size
Trees for use in the landscape are usually classified as small, medium and large. Size categories may overlap depending on culture and climatic conditions.
- Small trees
Those that rarely reach a height of more than 25 feet. - Medium trees
Those that mature at about 40 feet. - Large trees
Those that mature at heights greater than 40 feet. Some may reach heights of 75 to 100 feet.
In the landscape, large trees are in scale with tall houses but will make low houses seem smaller. Small and medium trees fit well with low houses but will make a tall house appear even taller.
Shape
The natural shape of a tree will influence its appropriateness to many landscape uses. Choose a form that will suit your needs and then find types or varieties with these forms.
Erect, columnar fastigiate
Trees with upright, slender growth that produces a towering effect. These trees are useful as accents in mass plantings and will accent vertical lines of buildings. They are useful for large screens and windbreaks where land space is limited.
Some trees of this type are the pyramidal hybrid oak, columnar red maple, columnar European hornbeam and columnar junipers.
Spreading
Trees with a broad, natural growth and horizontal branching habit. They often form flat tops. They are useful for breaking vertical lines in buildings. Examples of trees with this growth are Winter King hawthorn, golden rain, dogwood, flowering cherry and mimosa.
Open-headed
Trees with a rather indistinct outline and a loose, open structure. Their value in the landscape is a tracery against the sky and light shadow cast on the ground. Large trees in this group make good trees for background planning. Typical examples are honeylocust and mature ginkgo.
Round-headed
Trees with curving or rounded crowns. They are often close-branched and provide dense shade. Trees of this type are dominant and produce a dense textural effect. Examples of this type are the Norway maple, catalpa and saucer magnolia.
Pyramidal
Trees with a single stem, from which branches grow at right angles and appear to be in layers. In outline the tree has a cone-shaped effect. The form is very dominating and therefore these trees are best used as specimens or grouped in mass plantings. Sweet gum, pin oak, American holly and spruce species are examples of trees with this type of growth.
Oval
Trees with a general egg-shaped appearance. Top of the growth comes to a broad point which may be rounded. The overall crown is not as broad as the round-headed shape. Many trees of this type provide dense shade and become dominant landscape trees. Examples are sugar maple and horse chestnut.
Umbrageous (umbrella-shape)
Trees with a rounded top, but open-headed growth to form a canopy that suggests an umbrella. New disease-resistant selections of American elms are an example of trees with this type of growth. Hackberries and zelkova also have this growth habit. They are especially useful in areas where shade is needed but where low-branching trees would obstruct views. This type of growth allows good light penetration beneath the trees.
Weeping
Trees with branches that hang freely toward the ground from the trunk or other branches. The form is rather unnatural and trees of this type should be used only in flat areas where the eye is directed downward toward some interesting feature such as a pool. Their use should be limited to that of an accent plant. Very popular, although easily broken in storms, is the weeping willow. Weeping forms of many trees have been developed such as the weeping birch, weeping beech and weeping cherry.
Texture
In leaves, stems and twigs, trees possess definite textural qualities. These qualities should be related to surrounding items and plants.
Trees with coarse leaves, large branches and dense growth are dominant. Large trees of this type dwarf things around them. They are best suited to large areas and to large homes and buildings. Small trees of this type make striking accents. Coarse textures give a feeling of closeness. This type of tree is most useful as a noise barrier.
A tree with medium texture can relieve the heaviness of many buildings and give a greater feeling of space. Trees of this type allow light penetration and air movement and still provide good shade and screening.
Fine-textured or filamentous trees are more open and light penetrates them well. Twigs, foliage and branches are usually small and slender. The feathery foliage is valuable for small areas since it helps to produce a feeling of space. Large plants of this type help to give a greater feeling of depth to small areas when used behind plants of coarse texture.
Other characteristics to consider
- Do not select trees to be put close to the house that are rapid-growing but short-lived and prone to breakage from ice, snow or wind.
- Select trees with few or no insect or disease problems. If trees are chosen with known problems, be prepared to give adequate control measures.
- Choose trees that are hardy for the area.
- Choose trees that are in scale with house and site.
- Avoid trees with messy fruit, seed pods and frequent shedding of twigs and small branches.
- Select trees suited to environmental conditions of the area such as summer heat, air pollution, drainage and soil.
Juniper Pom Pom
This cute, low-growing accent tree looks like a handful of giant green lollipops coming out of the ground, and it will put a smile on the face of all who see it. Approximately every three months, the new growth may be trimmed so that it stays inside the circular shape. Fertilize the tree during the growing season with a slow-release fertilizer per package directions. With a small garden shovel check the soil to a depth of 6 inches. If the soil is dry it is time to water.
It lends itself well to formal landscapes, Asian-inspired gardens, and contemporary homes, but can be used anywhere you need a really special accent. They provide a classy focal point in the garden or in large containers in your outdoor room. Junipers are good choices, as they’ll hold their color all year, and their dense foliage makes it easy to maintain the shape with light pruning.
Yoshino Cherry - Prunus x yedoensis
This tree is considered both a flowering tree and an ornamental tree. It is typically planted for both its visual interest and profusion of spring flowers. The Japanese flowering cherry grows to a height of 40–50′ and a spread of 25–40′ at maturity. This tree grows at a medium rate, with height increases of 13–24″ per year. Full sun and partial shade are best for this tree, meaning it prefers a minimum of four hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. The Japanese flowering cherry is very versatile—growing in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained and clay soils. While it prefers moist conditions, the tree has some drought tolerance.
Some of the notable characteristics of this specimen tree are:
- Produces an amazing profusion of white-pink flowers March through April.
- Features alternating leaves with a simple shape, often reddish as they emerge and turning dark green by summer.
- Yields a round fruit up to 1″ that is attractive to birds, resulting in insignificant litter.
- Grows in a rounded shape.
- Is an important source of food for many small birds and mammals including robins, cardinals and waxwings.
Weeping Alaskan Cedar
Botanical name: Chamaecyparis nootkatensis ‘Pendula’
The Weeping Alaskan Cedar tree is a graceful specimen evergreen tree with a flowy form. Weeping Alaskan Cedar likes lots of sunshine, though in areas where summer highs are often in the 90s, it appreciates some afternoon shade. Growth is best when given regular water, but not so much that the ground remains soggy for hours. Its roots are rather shallow, and this tree should be planted in a site that is sheltered from strong winds. Snow, it can handle. Alaskan Cedar was designed to shed precipitation of all sorts. Snow can’t grab onto the waxy sprays of foliage, hanging in long branchlets straight down.
With its pyramidal form, straight trunk and graceful branches dressed in flattened sprays of aromatic foliage, the Alaskan weeping cedar (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis “Pendula”) makes an eye-catching addition to the home landscape. These evergreens — also known as Nootka falsecypress and Xanthocyparis nootkatensis — belong to the Cupressaceae or cypress family and can live up to 3,500 years in the wild. For striking visual impact, plant this tree as a focal point in the garden, around water features, in a large container or train it as a bonsai.
Weeping Spruce - Picea abies Pendula
This is a relatively low maintenance tree. When pruning is necessary, it is recommended to only trim back the new growth of the current season, other than to remove any dieback. Deer don’t particularly care for this plant and will usually leave it alone in favor of tastier treats. It has no significant negative characteristics. Weeping Norway Spruce will grow to be about 25 feet tall at maturity, with a spread of 10 feet. It has a low canopy, and should not be planted underneath power lines. It grows at a slow rate, and under ideal conditions can be expected to live for 60 years or more.
It does best in average to evenly moist conditions, but will not tolerate standing water. It is not particular as to soil type or pH, and is able to handle environmental salt. It is highly tolerant of urban pollution and will even thrive in inner city environments.
Hinoki Cypress - chamaecyparis obtusa
It has an open-branched, narrow pyramidal form with gracefully arching branchlets that are sure to please the eye when uses as a focal point specimen, in groupings, or in privacy screen plantings. Ideal for use as a focal point specimen to draw attention, to frame the corners of tall homes and other structures, or arranged in single or staggered rows to form a very attractive privacy screen or buffer. Also suitable for growing in large containers and a natural fit for conifer gardens, rock gardens, and Xeriscape gardens (low water needs).
The Hinoki Cypress, especially the ‘Gracilis‘ variety, would be a fine choice in a rock garden. Its evergreen branches and dwarf stature making a year-round highlight at the edge of the rock garden. It would lend height and the whorled branching would feel like a tree that is windswept in an alpine environment. Grows best in moist but well-drained, neutral to slightly acidic soil. Full sun.
Hydrangea paniculata ‘Tree Hydrangea’
What a breathtaking sight! In mid-summer this color-changing Hydrangea Tree is covered with masses of snow-white flowers. In late summer, the flowers turn a beautiful bluish-pink aging to a purplish pink. There is nothing quite like these trees to add elegance and structure to your garden. Planted in the ground or in containers, these traditional yet hard-to-find specimens provide balance, stature, and scale.
This is an excellent tree for specimen or ornamental planting. It is especially attractive grown in groups of three. The Hydrangea Tree is a lovely, fast-growing specimen tree up to 7-12′ tall. The blossoms grow in panicles up to 8 inches long. They appear on the branches as cream-colored flowers, but eventually mature to purple or deep pink. Tree hydrangeas produce a generous amount of flowers. Often, the tree’s spreading branches are dipped toward the ground with the weight of these blossoms.
Grow Tree Hydrangeas in full sun in order for them to flower best. The soil should be well-drained and enriched by organic matter. A soil pH that is slightly acidic is preferred. The species name, paniculata means “panicled” and refers to the shape that the bush’s flower heads assume. In fact, you will occasionally see the bushes referred to as “panicle hydrangeas.” A “panicle” is defined as a loose, diversely branching flower cluster. The cultivar name, too, is based on what the flowers look like: ‘Grandiflora’ means “large-flowered.”
Dwarf Colorado Blue Spruce - Picea pungens Globosa
Dwarf blue spruce is adaptable to a wide range of growing conditions and is hardy to USDA Hardiness Zone 3 (-40 to -30 degrees F) to 8 (10 to 20 degrees F). It prefers a well-drained to dry soil due to the high elevation of its native habit in the western United States but can easily adjust to most soil types. Its coarse, blue-gray needles are extremely vibrant, especially during spring when new shoots (or candles) break, releasing a flush of soft light blue foliage that remains throughout most of spring and summer. The growth rate of Picea pungens‘Globosa’ is quite slow, averaging only 1 to 6 inches per year (3 to 6 feet in 10 years) classifying this conifer as a dwarf.
Maintenance of dwarf blue spruce is minimal. It requires very little attention, except for regular watering during establishment, and selective pruning to control height and habit. Like most plants, dwarf blue spruce benefit from 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded bark or composted leaves.
Juniperus Chinensis 'Blue Point' Spiral
Having a height of about 15 ft with a 5 foot spread, this plant is hardy -20 degrees to -30 degrees. It does its best when planted in full sun. It has the following characteristics and growth habits:
- Spiral blue point juniper feature shrub is ideal as a specimen or garden accent and in borders
- Produces an upright form with blue-green foliage that darkens in the winter, adding a touch of seasonal drama to your landscape
- Thrives in areas that receive full sun, and requires semi-moist soil for healthy plant growth
- Zone 4 cold hardiness means it can withstand winter temperatures from -20 to -30-degrees, making it well-suited for cooler climates
- Deer-resistant plant is safe from grazing, depending on food scarcity
- Heat and drought-tolerant plant makes it a durable option for your outdoor space
Cedrus deodara - Deodar Cedar

Full sun is the ideal condition for this tree, meaning it should get at least six hours of direct, unfiltered sunlight each day. The Deodar cedar grows in acidic, loamy, moist, sandy, well-drained and clay soils. It prefers moist soil but has good drought tolerance. The Deodar cedar provides nesting sites, cover and food for mammals and birds such as the woodpecker.
This cedar’s name, Deodar, derives from Sanskrit that translates to “timber of the gods.” The tree is native to the Himalayas. A graceful tree with bluish-green needles, the deodar cedar is an exceptionally beautiful evergreen.
Physical Attributes
- Has a smooth gray-brown bark in its youth and develops short furrows with scaly ridge tops as it ages.
- Has sharp-tip needles that shed in the spring as new growth appears.
- Features bluish-green or silvery needles and a distinct layering branch pattern. This tree is a popular windbreak choice.